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Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 18th century

Zou Yigui

A work made of silk, warp-float faced satin weave; embroidered with gold-leafed-paper-strip-wrapped cotton in padded satin and stem stitches; couching; edged with silk and gold-leafed-paper-strip-wrapped silk in warp-float faced satin weave with plain interlacing of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts.

Man's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe), 1890/1910, Qing dynasty (1644–1911)

Manchu

A work made of silk, plain weave; lined with polyester and silk, plain weave; sewn with front and lining matched in size (tachikiri awase); cords: rayon, machine knitted; plastic toggel.

Dashibukusa (Fukusa With A Tray), Heisei period (1989–present), 1991

A work made of cotton; plain weave formed by paired warps and wefts; with supplementary brocading wefts in cotton and silk floss.

Blouse (Huipil), 1930/39

Maya

A work made of silk, rayon, wool, cotton, and metallic foil encased in synthetic film, twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts.

Sample (Drapery Fabric), 1951

Dorothy Liebes

A work made of silk, satin weave underlaid with linen, plain weave; appliquéd with silk, satin weave; linen and silk, plain weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut solid velvet; and three-dimensional figures of silk, satin weave; linen, plain weave; and silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk, linen, gilt-metal-strip- and wire-wrapped silk in satin stitch; couching, padded couching, and french knots; painted; glass beads and semi-precious stones.

Orphrey Cross (Needlework), Late 15th century

A work made of silk, plain weave; appliquéd with silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk floss and silk chenille yarns in outline, satin, single satin and stem stitches; couching and french knots.

Salesman's Sample (Waistcoat Pocket), 1780/90

A work made of silk, plain weave with discontinuous wefts; painted details.

Woman's Semiformal Shoe Tops (Uncut), 1900/10, Qing dynasty (1644–1911)

Manchu

A work made of silk and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with supplementary brocading wefts and plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and some self-patterning ground wefts.

Panel, c. 1732

Imitator of Jacques Courtois

A work made of silk and gilt-animal-substrate-wrapped cotton, warp-float faced 's' 3:1 twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound by secondary binding warps in twill interlacings.

Fragment, 1350-1400

A work made of silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; embroidered with silk in satin and stem stitches; painted details; sleeves: bands of silk, plain weave and of silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave; edging and closures: silk, cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, satin damask weave; sleeves lined with cotton, plain weave; metal buttons.

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe), Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1790-1820

Manchu

A work made of patterned side: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave (shusu); embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip wrapped silk in chinese knot, satin, single satin, surface satin, stem and straight stitches; paper-strip wrapped cotton padded satin stitches; laidwork and couching; painted india ink (sumi) details lined (re-lined) with silk, plain weave with creped wefts (chirimen); interlined with cotton; plain weave; padded with waste silk sewn with padded lining extending beyond front at center on all four side (yatsuzuma); silk, running "controlling" stitches along edges.

Fukusa (Gift Cover), late Edo period (1789–1868), early 19th century

A work made of silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps and supplementary patterning wefts; woven on loom with jacquard attachment.

Ribbon, 1830/50

Gertrude Rapp

A work made of silk and wool, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of weft-float faced 1:3 'z' twill weave; patterned areas of weft-float faced 3:1 twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 'z' twill interlacings over warp-float faced twill weave; main warp fringe; woven on loom with jacquard attachment.

Burnoose, Narrow Shawl, or Scarf, c. 1862

A work made of silk, cut, uncut, and voided velvet against satin weave foundation.

Fragment, 18th century

A work made of 26 scarves: silk, plain weave with supplementary patterning wefts.

Autumn Leaves (Impromptu of Scarves), Heisei period (1989–present), 1988

Keiko Kobayashi

A work made of silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave with three and four-color supplementary pile warps forming cut voided velvet; edged with woven tape; lined with silk, plain weave.

Chasuble, 1501-1525

A work made of silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit and dovetailed tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; trimmed with cords of gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk couched with silk; sleeves: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave; edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 'z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; cuffs lined with silk, 4:1 satin weave; metal buttons.

Empress' Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe), Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1790-1820

Manchu

A work made of silk, plain weave; cut and drawn threadwork embroidered with silk in weaving stitching filling; attached silk edge cord and corner tassels of silk, wrapped; wrapping threads embroidered in knotted buttonhole stitches; cut fringe.

Cover for Ceremonial Betel Stand (tutuik or saputangan siriah), Early 20th century

A work made of linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk in back, hem and double running stitches; edged with silk, bobbin straight lace.

Cover, 1601/25 (center: 19th century)

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