Buddhist Priest's Robe (Kesa) with Abstract and Stylized Gourd Decor
Japanese
A Buddhist priest's robe known in Japan as a kesa (Sanskrit, kasaya), this rectangular garment is made up of mulitple pieces of the same cloth that together form a patchwork of columns and rectangles framed within a border. The fabric is a luxurious resist-dyed orange silk with abstract patterns made utilizing the "kanoko shibori" tie-dye technique whereby multiple tiny areas of fabric were tied off before the dying process in order to preserve small circular areas of white reserved, the tiny white spots combining to form larger shapes and lines when viewed from afar. The fabric here was further embellished with images of stylized double-gourds decorated with leaves and vines. The gourds, vines, and leaves were embroidered in white, light pink, and light green silk threads and gold. Darker rectangular areas throughout the kesa indicate that rectangular pieces of another fabric (now lost) were once stitched onto selected areas of the patchwork kesa, protecting the main orange fabric beneath from fading through light exposure.
Resist-dyed orange silk utilizing the tie-dye (kanoko shibori) technique; selected motifs embroidered in polychrome silk and gold
Edo period, 1615-1868