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A work made of strips of handspun cotton, plain weave; pieced; embroidered and painted.

Talismanic Tunic

Mid–late 20th century

Djenné or Tombouctou, Mali

Mali

Traditionally worn discreetly under other clothing, this tunic—also known as a “charm gown”—physically and spiritually protects its wearer. In its creation an imam, a Muslim religious leader, wrote select passages from the Qur’an on a wooden prayer board. The writing was washed off to create a special mixture that was then painted over the cloth’s surface. The name of Allah, magic squares, and other talismanic and geometric designs were written in ink across the garment as additional layers of blessing and protection.

Strips of handspun cotton, plain weave; pieced; embroidered and painted

Textiles