late Edo period (1789–1868)/ Meiji period (1868–1912), 19th century
Japan
Japan
Patterned side: silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave (shusu); embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strip wrapped silk and wrapped cotton in back, Chinese knot, single satin and satin stitches; laidwork, paper padded laidwork and couching; Lining: silk, plain weave with creped wefts (chirimen); sewn with lining extending beyond front equally along edges of all sides (Shihôhi); silk, running “controlling” stitches along all edges; corners: silk, four-strand square braid; knotted atop open buttonhole filling stitch covered form terminating in replied fringe