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A work made of silk and gilt-paper strip; twill weaves with supplementary patterning and brocading wefts; lining: silk; plain weave with creped wefts, painted and embroidered with silk and gilt-paper-strip-wrapped silk.

Kesa

Early 20th century, Meiji period (1868–1912)/ Taishô period (1912–1926)

Japan

Japan

The popular geometric pattern of intersecting circles (shippo) often provides a background for symbols or other imagery, but in this kesa made for the Shingon, Shin, and Tendai sects, it is the sole decoration. What makes this piece special is the lining, which is left undecorated in most kesa. In this case, beautiful passages of bamboo and flying birds were embroidered in gold and painted on the lining, which appears to be original.

Silk and gilt-paper strip; twill weaves with supplementary patterning and brocading wefts; lining: silk; plain weave with creped wefts, painted and embroidered with silk and gilt-paper-strip-wrapped silk

Textiles