A work made of heri, jô, yô: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip, warp-float faced 2:1 ‘z’ twill weave with weft-float faced 1:2 ‘z’ twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; shiten, niten: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip, warp-float faced 2:1 ‘s’ twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts, some bound in weft-float faced 1:2, and 1:5 ‘s’ twill interlacings; lining: silk, plain weave self-patterned by rows of 1:1 plain gauze crossings.

Kesa

late Edo period (1789–1868)/ Meiji period (1868–1912), 1844/80

Japan

Heri, jô, yô: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip, warp-float faced 2:1 ‘Z’ twill weave with weft-float faced 1:2 ‘Z’ twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; shiten, niten: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip, warp-float faced 2:1 ‘S’ twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts, some bound in weft-float faced 1:2, and 1:5 ‘S’ twill interlacings; lining: silk, plain weave self-patterned by rows of 1:1 plain gauze crossings

Textiles