20th century
Cirebon, Java, Indonesia
Cirebon
Batik makers in Cirebon, a port city on Java’s north coast, create ornamental cloths for the Muslim market in nearby Sumatra. Both islands have been centers of Islamic faith since the 15th century. These textiles, traditionally worn by men as head scarves, are known as kain kaligrafi or batik bersurat for their elaborate calligraphic designs. In Islam, the written word—especially from the Qur’an—is sacred, making calligraphy a revered art form. The motifs express Muslim identity and are believed to offer spiritual protection. This scarf features the bismillah (“in the name of God”), a phrase recited for blessings and guidance. Abstract bird motifs may reference Qur’anic verses that highlight birds as symbols of divine power and community. The scarf's edges feature dense lines that mimic fringe, a typical finish in Sumatran scarves. The design is called sisir, meaning "comb," for its linear style.
Cotton, plain weave; hand-drawn wax resist dyed (batik tulis); silk and metal-strip-wrapped silk, bobbin lace