Appliqued fabric: Edo period (1615–1868), late 18th century Mounting fabric: Meiji period (1868–1912), 1868/83
Japan
Japan
Patterned side: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-pattered by areas of weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill interlacings; appliquéd with silk and gold-leaf-over- lacquered-paper-strip wrapped silk in surface satin stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave with creped wefts (chirimen) (possibly dyed with safflower (beni); interlined with cotton, plain weave; sewn with padded lining extending beyond front at center on all four sides (Yatsuzuma); silk, running "controlling" stitches along all edges; silk, knotted, cut fringe tassels