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A work made of raffia, plain weaves; pieced; appliquéd with plain weaves; embroidered in pearl stitches; edged with knotted pom poms.

Noblewoman's Skirt

Late 19th-early 20th century

Possibly Ngeende or Ngongo, Kuba Kasaï Province, Democratic Republic of the Congo

Democratic Republic of the Congo

Across Central Africa's Congo Basin, the processing of raffia palm fiber to weave textiles for clothing, display, and exchange is an ancient practice. The cloth is produced in panels on a single heddle loom, employing discrete lengths of raffia that correspond to the length of the fiber as it is peeled from the palm frond. This long and sumptuous skirt's dynamic abstract patterns, which are rendered in appliqué and embroidery, break free from the weaving's underlying grid. The use of a contrasting background color to accentuate the patterns suggests that the skirt comes from the eastern Ngeende or Ngongo regions of the Kuba kingdom.

Raffia, plain weaves; pieced; appliquéd with plain weaves; embroidered in pearl stitches; edged with knotted pom poms

Textiles